Portobello Pappardelle with Parmesan, Thyme & Ojai Mountain 2020 Estate Red

Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 25 minutes | Total time: 45 minutes | Serves: 4

Pappardelle Ingredients

The mushrooms and sauce

• 4 large portobello mushroom caps (about 1 lb. total), gills removed, sliced 1/2 inch thick

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

• 2 medium shallots, finely minced

• 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, plus extra sprigs to finish

• 1/4 cup dry sherry (or dry white wine)

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 1 teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

The pasta

• 12 oz. fresh pappardelle (or 10 oz. dried pappardelle or tagliatelle)

• 1 cup pasta water, reserved before draining

• 2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated, plus more for serving

• Flaky sea salt, to finish

Substitutions and sourcing notes:

On removing portobello gills: Use a spoon to scrape out the dark gills on the underside of each cap before slicing. This is not strictly necessary for flavor, but gills release dark liquid as they cook, which can turn the sauce muddy and grey rather than the deep, glossy brown that makes the dish look as good as it tastes.

How to Make Portobello Pappardelle

The single technique that separates excellent mushroom pasta from mediocre mushroom pasta is patience at the browning stage. Mushrooms are mostly water. If you crowd the pan or stir too early, they steam and turn grey. Give them space, high heat, and time, and they caramelize into something that genuinely earns a serious red wine.

Step 1: Prep the mushrooms

Remove the gills from the portobello caps with a spoon. Wipe the caps clean with a damp paper towel; do not rinse them under water. Slice 1/2 inch thick. Set aside uncovered while you bring the pasta water to a boil: the brief air exposure helps dry the surface slightly, which improves browning.

Step 2: Sear the mushrooms in batches (10 minutes)

Heat a large, wide skillet over high heat. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When it shimmers, add half the mushroom slices in a single layer. Do not stir. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes undisturbed until the underside is deep golden brown; the mushrooms will release their liquid and then reabsorb it as they caramelize. Flip and cook 2 minutes more. Season with salt, transfer to a plate, and repeat with the remaining oil and mushrooms.

Why batches matter: A full pound of mushrooms in one pan drops the temperature immediately, trapping steam and preventing browning. Two batches in a hot pan produce caramelization; one batch in a crowded pan produces grey, waterlogged mushrooms.

Step 3: Build the sauce (8 minutes)

Reduce heat to medium. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the same pan. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute more.

Add the tomato paste and stir it through the shallots, cooking for 1 minute until it darkens slightly. This caramelizes the tomato sugars and adds depth to the sauce without making it taste of tomato.

Return all the mushrooms to the pan. Pour in the dry sherry and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar. Let the liquid reduce by half, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and hold.

Step 4: Cook the pasta and finish the sauce

Cook the pappardelle in generously salted boiling water until al dente (2 to 3 minutes for fresh; package directions for dried). Before draining, scoop out at least 1 cup of pasta water.

Return the mushroom pan to medium heat. Add 1/2 cup of the pasta water and stir to loosen the sauce. Add the drained pasta directly to the pan and toss with tongs to coat, adding more pasta water a splash at a time until the sauce clings to the noodles without pooling at the bottom.

Remove from heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of cold butter and the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss vigorously until the cheese melts into the sauce and everything is glossy. Taste and adjust with salt and black pepper.

Step 5: Serve

Divide among warmed bowls. Finish with a pinch of flaky sea salt, a few fresh thyme sprigs, and additional Parmigiano shaved over the top with a vegetable peeler.

Timing note for hosts: The mushrooms can be seared up to 2 hours ahead and held at room temperature. Reheat gently in the pan while the pasta cooks. The whole dish comes together in under 10 minutes once the pasta is in the water, making it an excellent choice for a dinner party first course or a weeknight main.

Wine Pairing Notes: Ojai Mountain 2020 Estate Red

The 2020 Estate Red is a Grenache-forward blend that, in the early vintages, included Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc alongside the Rhône varieties. That Bordeaux influence gives this vintage a slightly firmer tannic structure than later releases, and that structure is precisely what makes portobello mushrooms the right match.

Portobello mushrooms are one of the most wine-friendly vegetables in the kitchen. Their glutamate-rich umami responds to tannin the way meat does: the protein and fat in the mushroom soften the wine's grip, and the wine's structure in turn amplifies the mushroom's savory depth. As Decanter notes, sauce drives the pairing more than protein, and here the sauce is doing significant work. The sherry deglaze adds an oxidative savory note that echoes the wine's earthy character; the Parmigiano adds salinity that softens tannin; the thyme bridges the wine's herbal aromatic lift.

What this pairing is not: a compromise. This is not a red wine chosen because no white seemed right. Portobello pappardelle with a serious Grenache-based red is a considered match, and the 2020 Estate Red has exactly the right combination of fruit, structure, and earthy depth to make it work.

Serving temperature: 62 to 65°F. Slightly below room temperature. If the bottle has been sitting in a warm room, chill it for 10 minutes before opening. The wine's fruit is more vivid and its tannins more precise at this temperature.

At the table: Open the wine while the mushrooms sear. Pour once the pasta is plated. The dish is at its best immediately; so is the wine once it has had 10 to 15 minutes of air.